prizeanna.blogg.se - Vvivid vinyl on cricut

#Vvivid vinyl on cricut plus#

DXF file, which can be imported into the Cricut Design Space software. I'm pretty new to Fusion still, so a big thanks to Bob Heninger for helping me figure the sheet metal part out. I used the sheet metal tool to simulate the carbon fiber in order to be able to convert it to a flat pattern. So next I modeled the whole thing in Fusion. Due to this fact, I peel the carbon fiber and it's carrier off the Cricut carrier sheet in one piece. In this case I'll be using unidirectional prepreg that comes stuck to it's own carrier paper. Some of the Hexcel spread tow products that are becoming more popular would be a good candidate. But some of the newer, more modern products come on a carrier of their own. Regular carbon fiber would come off in shreds. This method wouldn't work for all carbon fiber, as it has to be stuck down to a carrier sheet to be cut, then peeled off after the cutting is complete. It's also capable of adding quite a bit of pressure to the wheel. The Maker has a cutting wheel attachment that is similar to what I'd be using to cut it anyway. I finally decided that I might be able to cut the carbon fiber on our Cricut Maker.

More pondering and laying awake happened.

#Vvivid vinyl on cricut plus#

Plus better aesthetics and style points, right? Having a nice clean edge at the border of the pocket would help making sure it stays in place.

Thanks to a very talented co-worker, I have four fins that are straight-up rocket art.īecause of that curve in the corner of the pocket, it occurred to me that it would be nice to have a very precise and accurate shape for the tip to tip reinforcement. This pocket, plus the bevels, made for some complex machining requirements. This project started by modelling the fin in Fusion 360. As illustrated in the link above, the tip to tip reinforcement sits in a pocket machined into the face of the fin. In this case it's Garolite G-11, just like in his thread. Run your scraper (credit card, etc.) over the vinyl once applied to get out any remaining bubbles and help secure it to the surface.So my fins start with a high temperature core, and are one piece, rather than a separate leading edge. Once you have your vinyl securely adhered to your surface, take one corner of your transfer tape and slowly pull downwards at an angle. Always make sure to start from the center and work out towards the edges, this will press out any bubbles instead of pushing them in.

Carefully position it onto your project once you have it in place, firmly press down and use your scraper to smooth out any bubbles.

Adhere design to new surface- With your surface prepared (step 1) you are ready to align your image.

Next you will carefully pull off the backing paper from the vinyl being careful to make sure that the vinyl has transferred to your tape.

credit card, scraper, popsicle stick, etc.) to smooth out any bubbles and to make sure it is securely fastened to the vinyl.

Apply your transfer tape- This is the step that a lot of vinyl beginners are unaware of, and yet probably one of the most important in order to not have a stress meltdown when adhering your vinyl to your surface! Simply place your transfer tape over your vinyl, then take something flat and hard (i.e.

After your design is all cut, remove the excess vinyl from around your image/lettering (this is called weeding).

Cut your design- You can cut your design by hand or use a craft cutter.

The smoother your surface the easier it will be to transfer your vinyl onto, but rougher surfaces like wood, textured walls, etc.

Clean your surface- The first thing you will want to do is make sure the surface that you are planning on applying the vinyl to is clean and dry.